Capilla or as they promounce it here Capisha is a small village in cordoba province and quite famous among the Argentinians. The ride was about three hours from the capital of the province and once you arrive you feel the atmosphere of tranquility.
I mean, why else would the taxi driver prefers to give you instuctions of how to walk at your hostel rather than discontinue gossiping with the kiosk owner.
Anyhow, made it to the hostel right before the storm start in good mood. I dropped my stuff and went for a walk in the town to find some food. Found a restaurant ordered my food.. waited for about 30 minutes and then, when they brough my plate (indicating the food was almost ready) the power at the restaurant went off because of the storm, and after another 30 minutes I still had an empty plate in front of me, but at least I had a nice beer. It took them a bit more than an hour in total but I finally got my food , (which was really tasty, or I was really hungry) and had to eat it in the dark, without light.
Not important, at least with a filled belly I had no problem to walk back to the hostel under the rain, where I met my new rommies, and what a suprise, two argentinians that spoke no word in English. At least the were kind enough to help me alot the next days improving my spanish and speak slowly when I asked. Two women, a middle aged doctor from buenos aires, and a hippie girl in her twenties from buenos aires as well.
Morning next day, I explore the center of the village, the east outskirts and made friends with the hostel dog, Carla who by the way is the laziest dog ever encountered. She wanted a swing bed only for herself
In the night, they had the opening of the hostel's restaurant so it was a good reason to have some drinks, try some wine, chat with my new friends, practise my spanish, add few new words in my vocabulary, teach some english to my hippie rommie and learn about the Buenos aires culture. Soon I called it a day.
Woke up early on the next morning, wine gave me a great sleep, I scheduled to go for a small hike to prepare me for the large one the day after. The first one was called Terrones and I arranged it with a Guide who had a group (of 8 school girls around 17-19 years old). Even though the place was really beautifull, the whole experience was not the best. The guide spend so much time talking about every flower and tree we found in front of us, I understood almost none, and to be honest wasn´t even bothered to pay attention as he was getting in so much detail that I bet only him cared. When he finally decided to move to the top, it started raining and thunderstorms, and that guy was amazing, in the middle of the thunderstorm he continue taking us to the top of the hill, of the highest hilll of the area with an obelisk in the top part of the hill just to make sure we stand next to a lightning rod. When I tried to explain how stupid that was to the girls (and being proud of being able to explain such a thing in spanish), they found it easier to start making fun of how scared I was, as if there was no reason of being scared. In the mean time there was hailstone (not a small one) falling like bombs and I could see couple of thunders per minute dropping around us too (not close but around the horizon), every time my eye was catching a lighting I was relieved.
The truth is, the view was really nice, it was a beautifull place but not under these conditions, unfortunatelly the clouds prevent me from taking nice pictures
Luckily
nothing happened, we reached the bottom safe. At he end, the guide asked
us for volunteer donation... well... well.... guess if I gave him...
Shortly later, I arrived back to the hostel, a bit wet, a bit pissed of, but alive.
I had a quick dinner and talk with my friends at the hostel and soon later went to bed, the next day would've been big, much bigger than what I expected.
In my last day in the village, I had scheduled a night hike on the Uritorco Hill (Cerro Uritorco). That was suppose to take a whole night to complete. Four to five hours to ascent and 3-4 to descent.
In the morning I decided to explore the west side of the village and it did not dissapoint me. Another trully beautifull place in Argentina. There was a big lake formed by a dam and the dam allowed only so water to pass through, forming a spectacular river on the other side which looked like an oasis. The water once again ice cold and perfect to wash your face during the heat and not only.
People were jumping into the water, and in general enjoy the place which is definitely one of my favourites so far.
The heat of the day caused me sunburns on my shoulders, a stupidity I was going to pay later.
Early in the afternoon I return to the hostel to rest and prepare for the night hike.
At one oclock after midnight, we met with the guide, Jorje, to take us up on the hill. The sky was clear and had some amazing views of the stars, I have never seen such a bright from the stars sky. Luckily the moon was not bright at all which made it easier to focus on the stars and the absence of any man-made light made it even easier and spectacular.
The path was not very difficult, but you definetely required a cane for the walk to take some of the load from you feet and save your ankles. After about an hour and a half hiking, it became so cold, I had to wear two jackets and had one of my hands in the pocket all the time. It was so cold that my hands were very very slow and difficult to bend or move. We had frequend 5 minute breaks and during that I was trying to learn how to shoot stars with my camera.
About 30 minutes before sunrise we reach the top and seek shelder from the wind. We had a quick breakfast and wait for the sun to rise. Still I cannot explain how cold and windy that was, really, one of the best and one of the worst experiences ever. Had amazing view of the sunrise above the clouds, shot stars and enjoyed the company of very interesting people, I didnt even mind the exchustion or the sunburns while I had to carry my small daypack, but the cold and wind were... beyond description.
Shortly after the sunrise, we start moving to the bottom. It took us more than 3 hours to completely descent and the last part was really hard, we were all tired not watchin our steps, slipping and falling down but once again made it back all in one piece.
My day was still not done though... I had to go back to the hostel pack-up and move the next destination, Santa Rosa de Calamuchita.
The truth is, when I reach the hostel I was so tempted to cancel my plans and stay there for one more day. But I didn't want to as I already made reservation for the hostel in that village. Getting there included two buses three hours each.
Anyhow, arrived in the hostel, had a quick shower pack-up and checked out. While in the hostel, I realized that the internet was not working but paid no attention. After I checked out I went to the ATM to get some cash and pay for my bus ride and the ATM did not work. There were only two ATM in the village so I went to the next one.. did not work either. I tried to find wifi signal in some retaurants.. no wifi, nowhere in the village. Apparently there was a telephone cable cut somewhere outside he village which made the whole village have no internet.
To sum it up:
No money
No ATMs
No phone credit
No bus ticket
No sleep more than 24 hours
Sunburns on my shoulders and having to carry two backpacks with all my belongings
Exhaustion from the nighthike and all the walking I did the day before :)
And try to explain all the above in spanish to the bus company!!
I get to the bus station and explain them what happened and that I had to leave today and I could pay them in the Capital. The guy there (Santiago) really wanted to help as he undestood my situation. He tried to call the headquarter but no one answered. After 45 minutes effort he decided to give me a ticket free of charge!!!!!!. I asked him if he could give me his address and send the money and the guys asked me.
-If I was in your country with the same problem, would you have done the same
-I replied yes, and it was the truth I would definitely had done the same
So, he replied
- Well, you are a tourist here, you barely speak the language and you are in need of help, money come and go.. what's 100 pesos anyway? go on and good luck
I only wanted to make sure that it would not cause any problem with his job. When he said "no don't worry" I thanked him and jumped on the bus that just arrived. What a moment, a trully nice guy that I probably never see again. But from my experience here so far, this is the attitude of the people.
Three hours later, I arrived in Cordoba.. did everything I had to do, had lunch and off to Santa Rosa Calamuchita. another beautifull village which I am about to go out and explore right now....
The Capilla experience was really rewarding and taughtfull. People only spoke spanish so I had to do extra effort than the previous places, I had some nice excursions, shot great pictures and made good friends especially with Sol, the girl in the hostel, she wanted to improve her english , I wanted to improve my spanish so we helped eachother with that.
I mean, why else would the taxi driver prefers to give you instuctions of how to walk at your hostel rather than discontinue gossiping with the kiosk owner.
Anyhow, made it to the hostel right before the storm start in good mood. I dropped my stuff and went for a walk in the town to find some food. Found a restaurant ordered my food.. waited for about 30 minutes and then, when they brough my plate (indicating the food was almost ready) the power at the restaurant went off because of the storm, and after another 30 minutes I still had an empty plate in front of me, but at least I had a nice beer. It took them a bit more than an hour in total but I finally got my food , (which was really tasty, or I was really hungry) and had to eat it in the dark, without light.
Not important, at least with a filled belly I had no problem to walk back to the hostel under the rain, where I met my new rommies, and what a suprise, two argentinians that spoke no word in English. At least the were kind enough to help me alot the next days improving my spanish and speak slowly when I asked. Two women, a middle aged doctor from buenos aires, and a hippie girl in her twenties from buenos aires as well.
Morning next day, I explore the center of the village, the east outskirts and made friends with the hostel dog, Carla who by the way is the laziest dog ever encountered. She wanted a swing bed only for herself
 |
| Carla in her casual pose |
In the night, they had the opening of the hostel's restaurant so it was a good reason to have some drinks, try some wine, chat with my new friends, practise my spanish, add few new words in my vocabulary, teach some english to my hippie rommie and learn about the Buenos aires culture. Soon I called it a day.
Woke up early on the next morning, wine gave me a great sleep, I scheduled to go for a small hike to prepare me for the large one the day after. The first one was called Terrones and I arranged it with a Guide who had a group (of 8 school girls around 17-19 years old). Even though the place was really beautifull, the whole experience was not the best. The guide spend so much time talking about every flower and tree we found in front of us, I understood almost none, and to be honest wasn´t even bothered to pay attention as he was getting in so much detail that I bet only him cared. When he finally decided to move to the top, it started raining and thunderstorms, and that guy was amazing, in the middle of the thunderstorm he continue taking us to the top of the hill, of the highest hilll of the area with an obelisk in the top part of the hill just to make sure we stand next to a lightning rod. When I tried to explain how stupid that was to the girls (and being proud of being able to explain such a thing in spanish), they found it easier to start making fun of how scared I was, as if there was no reason of being scared. In the mean time there was hailstone (not a small one) falling like bombs and I could see couple of thunders per minute dropping around us too (not close but around the horizon), every time my eye was catching a lighting I was relieved.
 |
| That is the kind of shelter you don't want during the thunderstorm |
 |
| Los Terrones Hike |
Shortly later, I arrived back to the hostel, a bit wet, a bit pissed of, but alive.
I had a quick dinner and talk with my friends at the hostel and soon later went to bed, the next day would've been big, much bigger than what I expected.
In my last day in the village, I had scheduled a night hike on the Uritorco Hill (Cerro Uritorco). That was suppose to take a whole night to complete. Four to five hours to ascent and 3-4 to descent.
In the morning I decided to explore the west side of the village and it did not dissapoint me. Another trully beautifull place in Argentina. There was a big lake formed by a dam and the dam allowed only so water to pass through, forming a spectacular river on the other side which looked like an oasis. The water once again ice cold and perfect to wash your face during the heat and not only.
 |
| The lake formed by the dam |
 |
| The oasis-river, used as a picnic area |
People were jumping into the water, and in general enjoy the place which is definitely one of my favourites so far.
The heat of the day caused me sunburns on my shoulders, a stupidity I was going to pay later.
Early in the afternoon I return to the hostel to rest and prepare for the night hike.
At one oclock after midnight, we met with the guide, Jorje, to take us up on the hill. The sky was clear and had some amazing views of the stars, I have never seen such a bright from the stars sky. Luckily the moon was not bright at all which made it easier to focus on the stars and the absence of any man-made light made it even easier and spectacular.
The path was not very difficult, but you definetely required a cane for the walk to take some of the load from you feet and save your ankles. After about an hour and a half hiking, it became so cold, I had to wear two jackets and had one of my hands in the pocket all the time. It was so cold that my hands were very very slow and difficult to bend or move. We had frequend 5 minute breaks and during that I was trying to learn how to shoot stars with my camera.
 |
| Milky way shooting from the valley of the spirit to the south |
 |
| About a third of the way up, last sight of the village |
About 30 minutes before sunrise we reach the top and seek shelder from the wind. We had a quick breakfast and wait for the sun to rise. Still I cannot explain how cold and windy that was, really, one of the best and one of the worst experiences ever. Had amazing view of the sunrise above the clouds, shot stars and enjoyed the company of very interesting people, I didnt even mind the exchustion or the sunburns while I had to carry my small daypack, but the cold and wind were... beyond description.
 |
| Sunrise from above the clouds |
 |
| View right after sunrise |
Shortly after the sunrise, we start moving to the bottom. It took us more than 3 hours to completely descent and the last part was really hard, we were all tired not watchin our steps, slipping and falling down but once again made it back all in one piece.
My day was still not done though... I had to go back to the hostel pack-up and move the next destination, Santa Rosa de Calamuchita.
The truth is, when I reach the hostel I was so tempted to cancel my plans and stay there for one more day. But I didn't want to as I already made reservation for the hostel in that village. Getting there included two buses three hours each.
Anyhow, arrived in the hostel, had a quick shower pack-up and checked out. While in the hostel, I realized that the internet was not working but paid no attention. After I checked out I went to the ATM to get some cash and pay for my bus ride and the ATM did not work. There were only two ATM in the village so I went to the next one.. did not work either. I tried to find wifi signal in some retaurants.. no wifi, nowhere in the village. Apparently there was a telephone cable cut somewhere outside he village which made the whole village have no internet.
To sum it up:
No money
No ATMs
No phone credit
No bus ticket
No sleep more than 24 hours
Sunburns on my shoulders and having to carry two backpacks with all my belongings
Exhaustion from the nighthike and all the walking I did the day before :)
And try to explain all the above in spanish to the bus company!!
I get to the bus station and explain them what happened and that I had to leave today and I could pay them in the Capital. The guy there (Santiago) really wanted to help as he undestood my situation. He tried to call the headquarter but no one answered. After 45 minutes effort he decided to give me a ticket free of charge!!!!!!. I asked him if he could give me his address and send the money and the guys asked me.
-If I was in your country with the same problem, would you have done the same
-I replied yes, and it was the truth I would definitely had done the same
So, he replied
- Well, you are a tourist here, you barely speak the language and you are in need of help, money come and go.. what's 100 pesos anyway? go on and good luck
I only wanted to make sure that it would not cause any problem with his job. When he said "no don't worry" I thanked him and jumped on the bus that just arrived. What a moment, a trully nice guy that I probably never see again. But from my experience here so far, this is the attitude of the people.
Three hours later, I arrived in Cordoba.. did everything I had to do, had lunch and off to Santa Rosa Calamuchita. another beautifull village which I am about to go out and explore right now....
 |
| My favourite star picture from the night hike in Uritorco |
The Capilla experience was really rewarding and taughtfull. People only spoke spanish so I had to do extra effort than the previous places, I had some nice excursions, shot great pictures and made good friends especially with Sol, the girl in the hostel, she wanted to improve her english , I wanted to improve my spanish so we helped eachother with that.
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